puerto viejo de talamanca

Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica: Ultimate Travel Guide [2024]

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca – or simply, Puerto Viejo – is a laidback, sun-kissed town on the edge of Costa Rica’s pristine Caribbean coast. Filled with beachside bars, restaurants, and local markets, this small town is increasingly popular with travelers for its lively and colorful vibe. 

We fell in love with Puerto Viejo when we visited, and it quickly became one of our favorite places to visit in Costa Rica. Read on for all our insider tips to help you plan your trip to Puerto Viejo, including the best things to do, memorable day trips, and where to stay.

puerto viejo costa rica

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Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

Don’t be fooled by Puerto Viejo de Talamanca’s small stature: this tiny, laid-back town feels like the ultimate beach destination but has so much more to offer. With a hip party scene, stunning wildlife areas, plenty of opportunity to connect with locals, and infinite nearby day trip destinations, travelers often end up sticking around for longer than they planned.

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca has long been known as a haven for surfers and backpackers. Tiny hostels, beach bars, and the vibrant party scene prove it and continue drawing backpackers from nearby Panama and other towns in Costa Rica in drove.

However, recent years have seen the travel scene change significantly in Puerto Viejo. New hotels and eco-lodges in surrounding natural areas, as well as an increasingly vibrant foodie scene and ultra-sustainable ways to enjoy the area are drawing a whole new type of traveler to this particular beachy corner of Costa Rica.

Best Time to Visit Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Costa Rica

Most travelers heading to Costa Rica are escaping cold, wintery weather back home. This means that most areas of Costa Rica – including Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, experience a distinct high season and low season of travel, as well as two yearly shoulder seasons.

  • High Season: December through April
  • Shoulder Season: May and June, October and November
  • Low Season: July through September

Located on the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca has similar weather patterns to that of many Caribbean islands: beautiful and sunny from November through April or May and slightly more rainy and stormy from June through October.

Keep in mind that, though Costa Rica sits outside of the Atlantic hurricane belt, it can sometimes experience tropical storms during hurricane season, from June through November.

Things To Do in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica

Puerto Viejo and the surrounding areas are full of so many opportunities to experience some of Costa Rica’s best attractions that you don’t have to be a backpacker to enjoy this little slice of Caribbean heaven – it’s a great addition to any Costa Rica itinerary for all kinds of travelers. These are among the top things to do in Puerto Viejo:

1. Go Beach-Hopping

From Puerto Viejo, you can enjoy sunny beach days at several gorgeous spots all along the Caribbean coast. From the town’s smallest beach, Playa Chino, to its sparkling black volcanic sand beach Playa Negra just north of town, you’ll have plenty of options.

Just outside of the town to the south, there’s Playa Chiquita which is perfect for a secluded beach day, while Playa Cocles is the biggest and most popular, with the best waves for surfing. 

Read More: 12 Best Beaches in Costa Rica

2. Watch The Surfing Pros Taking On Salsa Brava

Head to the Salsa Brava Restaurante Caribeño, and you’ll have the best views of Puerto Viejo’s iconic surf break. It’s known for having the best waves in Costa Rica, attracting surfers from all over the world who visit to ride its epic break. 

This is not a wave you should be surfing unless you’re a pro, but sitting and watching the professionals while taking in the sunset is definitely a highlight of any trip to Puerto Viejo. Make sure to try the fish tacos!

3. Take A Surf Lesson

After watching the surfers go after big waves, gear up to try surfing for yourself! Head to Playa Cocles where you’ll find endless rows of surfer shacks offering lessons to the more novice and beginner surfers at affordable rates. Surfing is hugely popular in this area of Costa Rica and Panama, so if you’re feeling brave, there’s no safer way to learn than with a local instructor.

best beaches in costa rica
Playa Punta Uva – Simon Dannhauer / Shutterstock

4. Bike To Punta Uva  

Punta Uva is the next town south of Puerto Viejo and is a short, scenic bike ride between the ocean and lush green jungles. It makes for an impressive journey and is a very popular activity. 

If you’re going beach hopping, renting a bike to get around is an affordable ($8 for 24 hours) and sustainable way to do it! Once you reach Punta Uva you will have two beautiful beaches to choose from: Playa Punta Uva and Playa Punta Uva Arrecife. 

5. Enjoy Watersports at Punta Uva 

Once you’ve reached Punta Uva there are some fun water-based activities you can do, such as kayaking, snorkeling, SUP, and even scuba diving! Head to Punta Uva Adventures on the main road to enter the beach, where you’ll find equipment for rent. 

Between the two beaches, there’s a short trail that leads you up to a gorgeous viewpoint overlooking Arrecife Beach. Punta Uva Adventures is also known as Sloth Point and is also the entrance to the beach where the trail can be easily accessed; ask a local if you’re not sure.

6. Bike To Manzanillo & Playa Grande

If you’re feeling extra adventurous, continuing your eco-friendly bike ride down to Manzanillo should be next on your itinerary. Manzanillo is the end of the road; this small, peaceful fishing village is much more “local” and makes for a unique destination. 

Its main beach is Playa Grande, a never-ending, soft sand beach, perfect for soaking up some rays and snorkeling. There’s even a shipwreck off the beach, which has been colorfully graffitied making for a great photo op!

The village lies inside the Gandoca-Manzanillo National Refuge, so expect to see some wonderful wildlife, especially exotic birds singing away high in the trees and graceful flocks of pelicans gliding over the water.

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best things to do in puerto viejo

7. Visit Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge

The Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Reserve is home to the only intact mangrove swamp on Costa Rica’s Atlantic coast, making it an important part of Costa Rica’s biodiversity. It’s a breeding ground for several species of turtles (from March to May), manatees, crocodiles, caimans, tarpons, and dolphins.

This primary lowland rainforest is the only one of its kind in the region and is home to some of the most endangered wildlife in the country. This makes a visit to this park a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience! 

You can explore the park on your own, but doing a guided hike will be much more beneficial. Local guides will be able to point out wildlife that you are more likely to miss on your own and answer any questions you might have.

Read More: Gandoca – Manzanillo Traveler’s Guide

8. Savor Breakfast at Bread & Chocolate

Hands down, one of the best breakfast (and dessert) places in Puerto Viejo is Bread & Chocolate. Their menu is full of tantalizing desserts, such as an incredible coconut cream pie, but the Caribbean pancakes with slices of crispy bacon are perfect to start the day.

You’ll really enjoy the energy and atmosphere in Bread & Chocolate – it is always busy, which is always a good sign! You’ll find it hard to meet anyone who has a bad thing to say about the friendly place.

9. Shop at the Old Harbor Art & Craft Market

From Friday through Sunday, the middle of Puerto Viejo welcomes a small but magical market that showcases some of the area’s more creative talents. It’s bursting with artisan crafts such as locally handmade bags and sarongs, jewelry made from sea shells and vines, local honey, and deliciously scented candles.

10. Go On A Caribbean Tasting Tour

One of the best ways to get to know a place is through its food. Puerto Viejo is known for its Caribbean flavors, so why not go on a Caribbean Tasting Tour?

Expect a fun and immersive tasting tour where you can sample food representative of the Caribbean Costa Rican culture. The food represents the diversity of their culinary heritage, and you’ll be able to meet local cooks who pride themselves in their cooking. 

Travel Essential

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11. Go On A Chocolate Tour 

Puerto Viejo and the surrounding region are famous for their chocolate production, and there’s no better way to enjoy chocolate when visiting Puerto Viejo than by heading out on a chocolate-tasting tour. These popular tours will teach you everything you could possibly want to know about cacao and the history of chocolate and chocolate making.

12. Visit The Kekoldi Indigenous Reserve

An alternative to a standard Puerto Viejo chocolate tour, consider heading into the Kekoldi Indigenous Reserve, which is home to the Bribri tribe. The Bribri are an indigenous group living in the forest in an environmental and cultural reserve. 

You’ll get to take part in a chocolate tour where you’ll learn about the relationship between the tribe and chocolate, as well as have the opportunity to visit the Bribri waterfall and spot some stunning wildlife within the reserve. 

puerto viejo de talamanca costa rica

13. Day Trip To Cahuita National Park

Do you want to see sloths in the wild? If so, make a trip to the Cahuita National Park. It’s one of the best places to visit in Costa Rica for its diversity of flora and fauna – you’re likely to see sloths and much more!

While Cahuita National Park doesn’t see as much tourism as the Pacific Coast’s national parks, lower tourism means you’ll have a much better chance of spotting even more wildlife. Cahuita also has some of the best unspoiled and breathtaking beaches to dawdle the day away. 

The park is free to enter, but it’s suggested to leave a donation for the locals who take pride in maintaining the paths and walkways through the park.

14. Trip To Finca La Isla 

For something a little different, plan a visit to the Finca La Isla permaculture farm on the fringes of Puerto Viejo. Since 1987, this organic farm has grown a mature collection of fruit and spice trees, offering visitors the opportunity to take a self-guided tour around the gardens and rainforest.

You’ll learn all about the edible plants that grow naturally within the forest and how they are used locally to treat ailments and turned into medicines. It’s also the only place that guarantees you’ll be able to see the red poison dart frog in the wild. You’ll also have the chance to see other varieties of poison frogs, reptiles, toucans, sloths, and native birds.

15. Whitewater Rafting At Pacuare River 

If you’re into adventure sports, whitewater rafting could be exactly what you’re searching for! One of the most popular activities in Puerto Viejo, rafting on the Pacuare River means navigating through more than 50 rapids of varying degrees of difficulty. This is one of the best ways to see the natural beauty around the area.

Where To Eat in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica

Bread and Chocolate

One of the best cafes in Puerto Viejo, Bread and Chocolate is a favorite for pastries, coffee, and delicious treats. However, it’s also one of the best places for breakfast in town, with incredible Caribbean pancakes and a variety of savory dishes to choose from. The outdoor covered seating makes it one of the most popular places in town.

Bread and Chocolate | $$ | Calle 215 between Avenida 69 and 256


Soulsurfer looks like a simple beachfront cafe, but it’s really something special. Excellent gourmet burgers and fries are the stars of the menu here, with a variety of options for toppings, dressings, and more.

Soulsurfer | $$ | Calle 215 at Avenida 69

Port Vell

This super laid-back cafe near the beachfront is another breakfast winner in Puerto Viejo, with acai bowls, omelets, and delicious egg sandwiches with all the fixings. Delicious coffee – hot and iced! – makes it popular throughout the day.

Port Vell | $ | Calle 213 at Avenida 73

Tasty Waves Cantina

Tacos, fritters, and burgers make Tasty Waves a popular place to eat in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca the whole day. However, the delicious mixed drinks make it a particularly popular happy hour and evening destination. Located on the road between Puerto Viejo and Playa Cocles, it’s a bit out of the way but a perfect stop as you bike to the beach.

Tasty Waves Cantina | $ | El Tesoro Cabinas Beachfront Road

selina puerto viejo
Courtesy of Selina Puerto Viejo

Where to Stay in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica

There are so many amazing places to stay during your holiday to Puerto Viejo, depending on your budget and style – more than you might expect for a small town. These are some of the most popular and well-reviewed spots in town:

Mar Caribe ($)

A favorite budget hostel in town, Mar Caribe offers a variety of room types and layouts. With private rooms, dorms, and even unique “huts,” it has plenty of options for travelers, even longer-term rentals. It also offers a communal kitchen and an outside communal area you’ll love. Though basic, it’s a great choice for a budget stay.

Reviews and Bookings: Mar Caribe

Selina Puerto Viejo ($ – $$)

Selina Puerto Viejo is part of the Selina chain of hostels and coworking/coliving spaces found across Latin America. Offering a great social atmosphere, tons of fun group activities, and nice dorms and private rooms, it’s a perfect choice if you’re looking to meet people.

Reviews and Bookings: Selina Puerto Viejo

El Tucan Jungle Lodge ($$)

Looking for an eco-friendly escape outside of town? El Tucan Jungle Lodge is a perfect choice. Though a bit rustic, this jungle stay will have you feeling as if you’ve ventured far into the rainforest, though you’ll be just a 15-minute walk from popular Cocles Beach.

Reviews and Bookings: El Tucan Jungle Lodge

Olinca Boutique Hotel ($$$)

Located in the heart of Puerto Viejo, Olinca Boutique Hotel is a lovely, friendly boutique hotel worth traveling for. With a large covered dining room, a large pool, and plenty of accommodation options – including apartment-style rooms for long-term travelers – this is easily one of the best places to stay in Puerto Viejo.

Reviews and Bookings: Olinca Boutique Hotel

things to do in puerto viejo

How To Get To Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica

Puerto Viejo seems slightly out of the way, but that is key to its charm. Located near the Costa Rica-Panama border on the Caribbean coast, it can be awkward to get to. Most tourists will fly into Costa Rica’s International Airport in San José and make their way to Puerto Viejo from there via local bus, coach, or even by hiring a private driver or arranging a taxi. 

  • Rent A Car: A well-maintained network of roads in Costa Rica means that travelers sticking to popular destinations will find it easy to navigate by car. Both as a way to reach Puerto Viejo and as a way to explore the rest of the country, renting a car would be the easiest way to travel, though not the most budget-friendly.
  • Take A Shuttle Service / Hire A Private Driver: Another popular way to reach Puerto Viejo is to arrange a transfer. These generally include shuttles (mini-buses) that will run between popular destinations, or you can arrange for your own private driver. On Viator, you’ll find options to pre-book private and shared transfers to Puerto Viejo.
  • Take A Bus: You’ll find plenty of coach-style regional and local buses to Puerto Viejo, both from San José and other nearby cities. Some bus routes require changing buses in Limón, though you’ll also find direct options to San José and beyond.

If you are coming from San José it might be an idea to include some other top Costa Rican destinations into your itinerary to break up the journey. Consider Tortuguero, which is loved for its turtle population, and Orosi Valley for its sweeping mountain views!

Getting To Puerto Viejo From Panama

With its proximity to the international border, Puerto Viejo is a popular destination with travelers coming overland from Panama. A popular option is to take the public bus from Boquete, Panama, to Puerto Viejo, crossing the border at Guabito. This can be quite a long travel day, but it is budget-friendly and worth the effort!

Most backpackers coming from Panama will leave from Bocas del Toro, another popular spot on the backpacking route through Panama, similar to the nearby San Blas Islands. You can also catch a shuttle bus from Bocas del Toro to Puerto Viejo for another convenient option. While this direct shuttle will cost around $50, it is a direct journey to town and makes crossing the border a breeze.

Abigail Dalton

Abigail Dalton is the travel writer behind I'm Going On An Adventure. She has traveled to 43 countries and shares up-to-date travel guides and advice on her blog about her experiences.